AllalinhornLet's do an easy 4000 meter peak in the Alps?...Sounds good.... But some more difficult route?...hmmm
If you dont want to read the article, the video is HERE.
The moment has arrived again. Summer is in full swing, temperatures unbearable and the only option how to cool down is to climb a 4000 meter peak in the Alps.
As usually, we start with detailed planning… Kidding. We are drinking few beers with Janek after a boulder session and deciding to climb some easy mountain in the Alps. After detailed analysis (beers) we have identified Allalinhorn as easy enough, only to decide to go up the Hohlaubgrat route, which is not exactly a simple one. Why did we have the simplicity as critera at the beginning? Not sure.
Brittania Hutte – > Hohlaubgrat – > Allalinhorn
Our plan was the following:
- Parking in Saas Almagel here: LINK
- Route to Brittania Hutte – approx. 6 km it took us around 4-5 hours LINK
- The following day #ATACK via Hohlaubgrat to Allalinhorn – LINK
- Return via normal route to cable car station Mittelallalin and back to Brittanie Hut.
Final team consists of me, Janek, Simone-Janek’s girlfriend and Zdenda. As we were fine tuning the details of the climb i have to emphasize “added value” of the video from Petr Jaros, who warned us about the food at Brittania Hut. The food was OK. At the end of the video he showed a local beautiful town, which we all believe was a drive through some tunnel next to a lake….not sure?….LINK
Anyways, we are heading out from Freiburg around 6 in the morning and driving in the direction of Saas-Fee. Coffee, gas station stops and we arrive at our parking spot.
We are packing our stuff, only Zdenda is checking how much tuna he’s got. The hike is smooth and after 4/5 hours we arrive at Brittnia Hut. We start talking to the locals, as the original route is not on the glacier anymore but leads on the rocky ridge next to it.
It is the summit day! The alarm goes off at 3:45 and we want to head out as soon as possible, maybe as the first group. The breakfast is at 4 and we are packing our backpacks. Finally we are heading out almost as a last group shortly before 5 o’clock in the morning….never mind :-).
First couple of hundred meters lead us down to the glacier, which we have to cross towards the rocky ridge. The glacier has lot of crevasses, but there was no snow, so you could clearly see everything and as the locals said: “you are not gonna jump in there on your own”…. hmmm, true. The ascend is going well. We are putting the crampons on and off and progressing on our way up. Once in a while required stop to eat some food (Zdenda tuna) and we are moving on.
After the rocky ridge we reach the height of 3600 meters and put the crampons on again to push our way across really steep glacier towards the short climb not far from the summit. In order to simplify the climb, chains have been installed on the rock. I have to admit, that based on the videos we have seen, i have expected an easier climb. If you dont want to be stressed out bring 2 or 3 quick-draws in order to secure the climb.
We are standing on a small ledge, Janek leads and eventually we all get to the top of the climb. From there it really is not far to the summit and if the weather allows, you will be rewarded with a beautiful view of Matterhorn and you will also see the normal route underneath via which you will descend to the cable car station – “Mittelalallin”.
We reach the cable car station and realize, that the standard return route is closed due to a stone fall. We are trying to figure out how to get back and we are talking to the guy at the cable car. Simone mentions, that we have done Alallinhorn – Hohlaubgrat when he sees how damaged we are, he lets us to ride down for free, thx for that. After a few additional hours we are back at the hut around 7 pm. The whole ascend took us 14 hours. In the end, if you are looking for a diverse climb including glacier, stony ridge and a bit of climbing, then Allalinhorn- Hohlaubgrat will be a perfect choice.
Thanks to everyone and CIAO!
Foto: Simone, Zdenda, Janek, Ja